Buying a Used Motorhome by Steven Greenwood
Registration Documents
Check the motorhome's registration document carefully. In particular, look at the model and type, and taxation class details. Avoid a motorhome whose vehicle registration document carries incorrect details under either of those two headings.
Service History
Make sure you buy a motorhome that has a service history. At the very least you should ask to see the previous MOT certificates so that you can check whether or not the claimed mileage is genuine.
Wheel Tread
Check that the tread on all tyres has worn evenly and that there are no cracks or splits in the walls. Check the inside tyre walls. Uneven tread wear could be an indication of more serious problems, so walk away.
Check underneath
Check the chassis and exhaust system for corrosion. Look for obvious signs of oil leaks and inspect the condition of the hydraulic pipes, electrical cables, water and waste pipes.
Outside Condition
Look at the sides of the motorhome, from each end, for signs of dents and other damage. In the case of aluminium sides, also check for signs of corrosion which are likely to manifest itself by tiny pinholes where the paint has come away. Also, signs of paint over-spray can mean a poor bodywork repair following an accident. If it looks serious, it probably is, so walk away. Gaps in the sealant, or sealant which is no longer sticking to the bodywork, are signs that resealing is necessary, which is certain to be expensive. Also, don’t forget to check the roof – a dirty top-side may be concealing damage, for breaks in the sealant.
Inside Condition
In the case of a coachbuilt or A-class motorhome, press the walls inside and ceiling firmly to check for any signs of softness which would indicate possible water ingress. In particular, check in the corners under the seats and base units because this is often where water ingress first appears. Stained wallboard is another adverse sign which should not be ignored.
Windows
Check all plastic windows in the motorhome for gouges and deep scratch damage. Scratches can often be polished out but deep marks or other damage may mean that the window has to be replaced – a plastic window for a motorhome is an expensive item. While you are examining the windows, gently lift the seal in different areas - if the frame is black, this is almost certainly due to water ingress.
Flooring
Make sure you walk all over the floor, feeling for soft spots which may indicate delamination. It is possible to repair this but it may be a sign of more significant structural problems, now or in the future.
Bathroom
In the bathroom, check the condition of the sealant around the toilet, shower and basin. If a mat is fitted in the shower tray, lift it to check for cracks in the tray. Depending on the age of the motorhome it can sometimes be impossible to find a replacement for a damaged item such as this.
Owner’s Manual
Ask to see the owners' manual, and suppliers' instructions for the various items of equipment in the motorhome. Careful owners will have kept them.
These checks are far from exhaustive, but they offer some areas to think about when looking over the motorhome. A well looked after motorhome will keep its value and could well be a great investment for all those holidays both home and abroad. Just like when buying an expensive car, it is well worth the time looking over your investment thoroughly before parting with your cash.
You are invited to view our wide collection of http://www.sureterm.com/news/category/motorhomes/ motorhome articles including buying guides, popular events and reviews for motorhome enthusiasts. Obtain a cheap (http://www.sureterm.com/motorhome-insurance.php) motorhome insurance quote from one of the UK’s most competitive insurance specialists, Sureterm Direct.
Article Source: Buying a Used Motorhome
Showing posts with label motorhome insurance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label motorhome insurance. Show all posts
Friday, November 20, 2009
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Tips for First-time Motorhome Enthusiasts by Steven Greenwood
Look around
There are a multitude of lay outs of motorhomes, so make sure you choose the right one. If you love cooking you’ll want a big kitchen and if you like entertaining then choose one with a big lounge.
Motorhome Shows
There are two big NEC shows in February and October where you can try out different motorhomes and campervans before you make your decision.
Berths
Consider how many berths you want and whether you want a single- or twin-axle van. Twin axles give better grip on the road but are much harder to manoeuvre, cost much more in replacement tyres and are really only necessary on large vans.
Courses
There are motorhome manoeuvring courses that you can attend all over the country. People are not required to take a test but get to practice manoeuvring their caravans or motorhomes in an informal environment.
Petrol / Diesel
Most motorhomes have diesel or turbo-diesel engines, which offer better fuel economy, but petrol alternatives are available if you prefer.
Costs
The costs of motorhomes range from second-hand vehicles at around £10,000 to £250,000 for an American-style Winnebago. The average cost is around £40,000 or £70,000 for the top UK models. Check the vehicle has a badge stating it has been safety-check and approved by the National Caravan Council.
Manufacturers
Swift is the biggest UK manufacturer of motorhomes, including the Bessacarr and Ace ranges. The market is split about 50-50 between British-built vehicles and imports from countries such as America and Germany.
Resources
There are a number of website and magazines where like-minded motorhome and caravan travellers can chat and compare advice. Just give a quick search into your favourite search engine and you’ll soon be presented with a myriad of information.
Staying overnight
It is illegal to stop on land that does not belong to you, and you will often get moved on if you pull into a quiet lay-by for the night. The best thing to do is to stay at registered camping and caravan sites. If you want to be really remote there are smaller sites you can stay at such as the Caravan Club’s Certified Locations (CLs) and the Caravanning Club’s Certified Sites (CSs), which offer minimal facilities but are in more rural locations.
This is just a brief introduction to help you on your way. Once you get going, you never look back.
Steve Greenwood writes for Sureterm Direct who provides Motorhome articles and insurance for enthusiasts. If you are looking for a competitive quote for motorhome insurance visit the UK’s most competitive insurance specialist - Sureterm Direct.
Article Source: Tips for First-time Motorhome Enthusiasts
Look around
There are a multitude of lay outs of motorhomes, so make sure you choose the right one. If you love cooking you’ll want a big kitchen and if you like entertaining then choose one with a big lounge.
Motorhome Shows
There are two big NEC shows in February and October where you can try out different motorhomes and campervans before you make your decision.
Berths
Consider how many berths you want and whether you want a single- or twin-axle van. Twin axles give better grip on the road but are much harder to manoeuvre, cost much more in replacement tyres and are really only necessary on large vans.
Courses
There are motorhome manoeuvring courses that you can attend all over the country. People are not required to take a test but get to practice manoeuvring their caravans or motorhomes in an informal environment.
Petrol / Diesel
Most motorhomes have diesel or turbo-diesel engines, which offer better fuel economy, but petrol alternatives are available if you prefer.
Costs
The costs of motorhomes range from second-hand vehicles at around £10,000 to £250,000 for an American-style Winnebago. The average cost is around £40,000 or £70,000 for the top UK models. Check the vehicle has a badge stating it has been safety-check and approved by the National Caravan Council.
Manufacturers
Swift is the biggest UK manufacturer of motorhomes, including the Bessacarr and Ace ranges. The market is split about 50-50 between British-built vehicles and imports from countries such as America and Germany.
Resources
There are a number of website and magazines where like-minded motorhome and caravan travellers can chat and compare advice. Just give a quick search into your favourite search engine and you’ll soon be presented with a myriad of information.
Staying overnight
It is illegal to stop on land that does not belong to you, and you will often get moved on if you pull into a quiet lay-by for the night. The best thing to do is to stay at registered camping and caravan sites. If you want to be really remote there are smaller sites you can stay at such as the Caravan Club’s Certified Locations (CLs) and the Caravanning Club’s Certified Sites (CSs), which offer minimal facilities but are in more rural locations.
This is just a brief introduction to help you on your way. Once you get going, you never look back.
Steve Greenwood writes for Sureterm Direct who provides Motorhome articles and insurance for enthusiasts. If you are looking for a competitive quote for motorhome insurance visit the UK’s most competitive insurance specialist - Sureterm Direct.
Article Source: Tips for First-time Motorhome Enthusiasts
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Motorhome Living – The Basics by Steven Greenwood
Gas Supply
Heating the motorhome and cooking requires gas. This gas, also known as LPG is stored in replaceable steel bottles or cylinders on-board and should be stored in an upright position. Depending on the type of motorhome there may be permanent gas storage on-board which can be refilled at stations, just like LPG cars.
Two common types of gas used in motorhomes are propane and butane. Butane contains more energy per bottle than propane but will not operate at lower temperatures. As fittings require changing from the use of propane to butane, those who use their motorhome all year will probably prefer to use propane.
Drinking Water
One of the most obvious requirements is a source of clean and drinkable water. The majority of modern motorhomes are fitted with on-board water tanks capable of holding 15 – 40 gallons or more. Ensure to refill the tanks from mains based water and not tank based. Less regular use of the water supply can cause stale tasting water; in this case using bottled drinking water is recommended.
Waste Disposal
Another consideration is waste generated and its disposal. Disposal of waste will vary pending its type; household, grey waste and black waste. Household waste is the easiest to dispose of by using waste bins. However used water, also known as ‘grey waste’ can cause more problems as grey waste can only be dumped in certain areas. In many instances these areas are only accessible via foot so those with a dump valve on their motorhome will need to find a portable container to carry the waste to the dump point. Fortunately some sites will provide facilities where it is easy to drive to the emptying point, situated on firm ground with an emptying gulley. Note that empting grey waste into public drains is technically illegal in most places.
Black waste or toilet waste is stored within a toilet cassette. Cassette emptying can be carried out at the ‘CDP’ or Chemical-toilet Disposal Point which can vary from a covered hole in the ground to a ceramic toilet device.
Electricity
Electricity is another commodity and comes either 12 volt or 230 volt, i.e. vehicle and mains supplies. The vehicle electrics are available all the time but low powered, mains electricity is only available on sites once the vehicle has been ‘hooked up’.
Typically the vehicle electrics will be able to supply the lights and water pump, but not heating. Air conditioning can also be run on the vehicle electrics, but is generally more efficient on the mains. Most modern motorhomes will have all the fittings necessary so that once the outdoor cables have been attached the sites mains supply mains electrics will be available.
Heating
Finally, consider using other amenities likes microwaves or a small portable oven for cooking, as most motorhomes only come fitted with a gas hob. For heating, portable electric fan heaters can be used through the mains supply, however avoid using gas heaters because of the risk of suffocation.
Finally, consider using other amenities likes microwaves or a small portable oven for cooking, as most motorhomes only come fitted with a gas hob. For heating, portable electric fan heaters can be used through the mains supply, however avoid using gas heaters because of a suffocation risk.
These are just a few ideas to consider if you are looking to stay in your motorhome for more than a weekend break and away from camp sites. Once you are used to the way your motorhome works and functions, everything will feel much easier and will make motorhome living a joy.
You are invited to view our extensive range of motorhome articles, including guides, advice and news. Sureterm Direct specialises in motorhome insurance. Obtain an online quote from one of our insurance specialists.
Article Source: Motorhome Living – The Basics
Gas Supply
Heating the motorhome and cooking requires gas. This gas, also known as LPG is stored in replaceable steel bottles or cylinders on-board and should be stored in an upright position. Depending on the type of motorhome there may be permanent gas storage on-board which can be refilled at stations, just like LPG cars.
Two common types of gas used in motorhomes are propane and butane. Butane contains more energy per bottle than propane but will not operate at lower temperatures. As fittings require changing from the use of propane to butane, those who use their motorhome all year will probably prefer to use propane.
Drinking Water
One of the most obvious requirements is a source of clean and drinkable water. The majority of modern motorhomes are fitted with on-board water tanks capable of holding 15 – 40 gallons or more. Ensure to refill the tanks from mains based water and not tank based. Less regular use of the water supply can cause stale tasting water; in this case using bottled drinking water is recommended.
Waste Disposal
Another consideration is waste generated and its disposal. Disposal of waste will vary pending its type; household, grey waste and black waste. Household waste is the easiest to dispose of by using waste bins. However used water, also known as ‘grey waste’ can cause more problems as grey waste can only be dumped in certain areas. In many instances these areas are only accessible via foot so those with a dump valve on their motorhome will need to find a portable container to carry the waste to the dump point. Fortunately some sites will provide facilities where it is easy to drive to the emptying point, situated on firm ground with an emptying gulley. Note that empting grey waste into public drains is technically illegal in most places.
Black waste or toilet waste is stored within a toilet cassette. Cassette emptying can be carried out at the ‘CDP’ or Chemical-toilet Disposal Point which can vary from a covered hole in the ground to a ceramic toilet device.
Electricity
Electricity is another commodity and comes either 12 volt or 230 volt, i.e. vehicle and mains supplies. The vehicle electrics are available all the time but low powered, mains electricity is only available on sites once the vehicle has been ‘hooked up’.
Typically the vehicle electrics will be able to supply the lights and water pump, but not heating. Air conditioning can also be run on the vehicle electrics, but is generally more efficient on the mains. Most modern motorhomes will have all the fittings necessary so that once the outdoor cables have been attached the sites mains supply mains electrics will be available.
Heating
Finally, consider using other amenities likes microwaves or a small portable oven for cooking, as most motorhomes only come fitted with a gas hob. For heating, portable electric fan heaters can be used through the mains supply, however avoid using gas heaters because of the risk of suffocation.
Finally, consider using other amenities likes microwaves or a small portable oven for cooking, as most motorhomes only come fitted with a gas hob. For heating, portable electric fan heaters can be used through the mains supply, however avoid using gas heaters because of a suffocation risk.
These are just a few ideas to consider if you are looking to stay in your motorhome for more than a weekend break and away from camp sites. Once you are used to the way your motorhome works and functions, everything will feel much easier and will make motorhome living a joy.
You are invited to view our extensive range of motorhome articles, including guides, advice and news. Sureterm Direct specialises in motorhome insurance. Obtain an online quote from one of our insurance specialists.
Article Source: Motorhome Living – The Basics
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Test Driving a Motorhome by Steven Greenwood
New Motorhome
Make an appointment with your chosen dealer in advance. Few dealers will be able to make a specific test vehicle available at short notice. It is best to allow plenty of time to cover every detail, so ask the sales person about planning a route and make any other specific requests, such as loading and additional passengers. If you're test driving a demonstrator model, check whether it has the same engine and specification as the model you want to buy.
Used Motorhome
If it's an older motorhome you want to try, ask if you can start it yourself. If the engine is warm when you arrive, it may have been pre-warmed to disguise any starting difficulties. If the clutch bites at the top of the pedal's travel, it's probably worn, so ask about a replacement. If the steering pulls to one side, the tracking needs to be adjusted. If there's a lot of play in the steering wheel, the steering gear may be worn and that is fairly serious.
Test Drive
Test drive using the maximum number of passengers you are likely to be carrying on a normal trip. Check if their feet can touch the floor? Is there enough room for a child booster seat? Will the heater or air-conditioning be up to the job in extreme conditions? If possible, simulate a full load – if it's a garage model, ask the sales person if you can load your bikes or scooter to see how the motorhome copes with the weight distribution. If you like to drive with a full water tank, ask to fill it. Ideally, visit a weighbridge to check the motorhome's weight, either unladen or, better still, with your kit in it. (Remember, many weighbridges need to be booked in advance.)
Plan your route to sample all possible driving conditions and make it long enough so that you can get a genuine feel for the comfort levels of the travel seats. Include a steep hill, a section of motorway or dual carriageway and some urban driving. Try a hill start, to see how the clutch feels. Consider long-trip factors: for example, will the stereo provide enough volume for all passengers to easily listen to audio books or music on long journeys?
Overnight Parking
Does the motorhome fit in your driveway? If the dealer is local and your drive is difficult to get into, it's worth checking to see how easily you can park. Consider whether it will be more difficult to negotiate at night and assess the security of where you intend to park. Check how easy it would be to empty the waste outlet on a campsite with no dedicated service point. Can you fit an extension to empty the waste water into an ordinary drain?
Driving
Try parking the motorhome as you would on tour – if you prefer smaller motorhomes and like to park in town centres, see how this works. If it's an older motorhome, will anyone else likely to drive the motorhome be able to cope without power steering? If you sometimes drive alone, try parking on your own. If the motorhome is an A-class (which may have only one cab door), or an import with an offside habitation door, where will each passenger get out?
Accessories
Do any retro-fitted accessories, such as reversing sensors, work as they should? Consider which accessories you need to fit and how these might affect visibility. An obvious one is a rear cycle carrier, which lengthens the vehicle and restricts your rearward view.
Usability
Cover all the angles. Simulate any difficult visibility conditions you may face, particularly if driving abroad, such as driving on the right-hand side of the road and turning left down a hill, with poor visibility of oncoming traffic. Can your passenger see enough to tell you when it's safe to pull out and will rear passengers obscure the view?
Noise Test
Complete a noise test. Drive the motorhome over an uneven road surface to see whether its squeaks and rattles or sets your teeth on edge. But, before you set out, make sure you've done everything sensible to stop noise, such as removing grill pans and baking trays from the cooker. Check the cupboard locks before you drive away, and that everything else is secure.
Maintenance and Repair
Identify the best service agent for the base vehicle in terms of quality of service, size of workshop (availability of short-term servicing) and cost. Ideally, this will be the supplying dealer or one of their sub-contractors. Consider spare parts costs and servicing cost over the vehicle's life span.
Finally
These are just a few steps to get you in the right frame of mind when viewing a motorhome for the first time. Motorhomes are big and so you should spend a lot more time examining one than you would for buying a car. If something doesn’t feel right, ask the owner or dealer and make sure you are happy with the reply before moving on. If there are any doubts it is far better to walk away giving yourself time to reconsider, rather than buying the motorhome and having the rest of your life to reconsider.
Please feel free to view our collection of motorhome articles including buying guides, reviews and tips for getting cheaper motorhome insurance. Obtain a competitive motorhome insurance quote from Sureterm, one of the UK’s most competitive insurance specialists.
Article Source: Test Driving a Motorhome
New Motorhome
Make an appointment with your chosen dealer in advance. Few dealers will be able to make a specific test vehicle available at short notice. It is best to allow plenty of time to cover every detail, so ask the sales person about planning a route and make any other specific requests, such as loading and additional passengers. If you're test driving a demonstrator model, check whether it has the same engine and specification as the model you want to buy.
Used Motorhome
If it's an older motorhome you want to try, ask if you can start it yourself. If the engine is warm when you arrive, it may have been pre-warmed to disguise any starting difficulties. If the clutch bites at the top of the pedal's travel, it's probably worn, so ask about a replacement. If the steering pulls to one side, the tracking needs to be adjusted. If there's a lot of play in the steering wheel, the steering gear may be worn and that is fairly serious.
Test Drive
Test drive using the maximum number of passengers you are likely to be carrying on a normal trip. Check if their feet can touch the floor? Is there enough room for a child booster seat? Will the heater or air-conditioning be up to the job in extreme conditions? If possible, simulate a full load – if it's a garage model, ask the sales person if you can load your bikes or scooter to see how the motorhome copes with the weight distribution. If you like to drive with a full water tank, ask to fill it. Ideally, visit a weighbridge to check the motorhome's weight, either unladen or, better still, with your kit in it. (Remember, many weighbridges need to be booked in advance.)
Plan your route to sample all possible driving conditions and make it long enough so that you can get a genuine feel for the comfort levels of the travel seats. Include a steep hill, a section of motorway or dual carriageway and some urban driving. Try a hill start, to see how the clutch feels. Consider long-trip factors: for example, will the stereo provide enough volume for all passengers to easily listen to audio books or music on long journeys?
Overnight Parking
Does the motorhome fit in your driveway? If the dealer is local and your drive is difficult to get into, it's worth checking to see how easily you can park. Consider whether it will be more difficult to negotiate at night and assess the security of where you intend to park. Check how easy it would be to empty the waste outlet on a campsite with no dedicated service point. Can you fit an extension to empty the waste water into an ordinary drain?
Driving
Try parking the motorhome as you would on tour – if you prefer smaller motorhomes and like to park in town centres, see how this works. If it's an older motorhome, will anyone else likely to drive the motorhome be able to cope without power steering? If you sometimes drive alone, try parking on your own. If the motorhome is an A-class (which may have only one cab door), or an import with an offside habitation door, where will each passenger get out?
Accessories
Do any retro-fitted accessories, such as reversing sensors, work as they should? Consider which accessories you need to fit and how these might affect visibility. An obvious one is a rear cycle carrier, which lengthens the vehicle and restricts your rearward view.
Usability
Cover all the angles. Simulate any difficult visibility conditions you may face, particularly if driving abroad, such as driving on the right-hand side of the road and turning left down a hill, with poor visibility of oncoming traffic. Can your passenger see enough to tell you when it's safe to pull out and will rear passengers obscure the view?
Noise Test
Complete a noise test. Drive the motorhome over an uneven road surface to see whether its squeaks and rattles or sets your teeth on edge. But, before you set out, make sure you've done everything sensible to stop noise, such as removing grill pans and baking trays from the cooker. Check the cupboard locks before you drive away, and that everything else is secure.
Maintenance and Repair
Identify the best service agent for the base vehicle in terms of quality of service, size of workshop (availability of short-term servicing) and cost. Ideally, this will be the supplying dealer or one of their sub-contractors. Consider spare parts costs and servicing cost over the vehicle's life span.
Finally
These are just a few steps to get you in the right frame of mind when viewing a motorhome for the first time. Motorhomes are big and so you should spend a lot more time examining one than you would for buying a car. If something doesn’t feel right, ask the owner or dealer and make sure you are happy with the reply before moving on. If there are any doubts it is far better to walk away giving yourself time to reconsider, rather than buying the motorhome and having the rest of your life to reconsider.
Please feel free to view our collection of motorhome articles including buying guides, reviews and tips for getting cheaper motorhome insurance. Obtain a competitive motorhome insurance quote from Sureterm, one of the UK’s most competitive insurance specialists.
Article Source: Test Driving a Motorhome
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Essential Motorhome Tools to Go
Essential Motorhome Tools to Go
by Steven Greenwood
The important thing to bear in mind is that the quality and selection of tools you take along is significantly more important than the quantity. Chosen carefully, you can reduce the weight and size of your tool kit without compromising its effectiveness. Another point to bear in mind is the means of carrying your tools. Although a macho-looking red metal tool box with ball-bearing runners and chrome hinges will look impressive, it will be very noisy as all those tools clatter around while you are on the move – and very heavy, too. A better alternative is an old holdall - it can be squashed into the corner of a locker, will deaden the sound of the tools, and weigh next to nothing compared to a box.
So what tools should you take?
WD40 - A can of this is seen much like the 'magic sponge' on the football pitch: a sort of cure-all; and that's pretty much the case. It's ideal for sorting out seized fixings and stopping squeaks. But it's excellent for electrical work, too. If you find a gungy electrical connection, a quick clean with some emery cloth and a squirt of WD40 is usually enough to sort things out.
Spanners - The secret is not to take a full set, which might well consist of seven or eight pieces and weigh a couple of kilos – there are not that many times that you are likely to need a spanner in the course of general maintenance of your motorhome. Leave most of your spanners at home; you'll need the one for changing the gas bottles, and a small one (typically 12 or 13mm) for removing the battery, but little else. Pack a small adjustable spanner in case you have a loose nut here or there, but unless you're going to carry out serious mechanical work, there's little call for a spanner.
Screwdrivers - As with spanners, there's little point in taking a whole load of screwdrivers with you when, in all probability, two or three would suffice. One large flat-bladed screwdriver will double usefully as a pry-bar for removing wheel trims and generally 'persuading' troublesome bits and bobs. A regular Phillips and a flat-bladed screwdriver will be good enough for general work but put a small electrical screwdriver in, too, for those fiddly little jobs. If you have a modern motorhome, buy a couple of torx-headed screwdrivers for removing interior trim: T20 and T25 sizes are very popular in Fiat and Peugeot models.
Torque Wrench - A torque wrench may seem a touch extravagant but it is essential for checking that your wheel nuts are tight. Throw away your standard wheel brace and replace it with a large, good quality, torque wrench equipped with the correct socket for securing your wheel nuts. It will also help ensure that you do not over tighten the nuts and damage them.
PTFE Tape - PTFE stands for Polytetrafluoroethylene… otherwise known as Teflon! This thread-sealing tape is ideal whatever problem you encounter, be it a plumbing or engine leak. Simply wrap the stricken thread in tape, retighten the fitting and there's a fair chance your problem will be solved. PTFE tape costs pennies to buy and weighs almost nothing.
Utility Knife - There is no substitute for one of these when you need a blade to remove something. The knife is an old design – neither clever nor sophisticated, but it really works well. The cheapest models cost as little as £1, but put a good blade in the handle and it will be as good and effective as the best.
Insulating Tape - Quite simply, a must have. If a wire's insulation gets damaged, or you need to join two wires, wrapping any bare wire with insulating tape will prevent trouble in the future. A length of wire - A piece of wire is always useful to have around. If wire gets cut or damaged, you can always bridge the break with a piece you have to hand. As you never know the particular use the wire is likely to be put to, it is best to opt for a heavy gauge. In an emergency, if you end up using a wire which is too thick it will be unlikely to cause a problem, but if the wire is too thin, it will heat up and, in extreme cases, could even cause a fire.
Cable Ties - These are great for get-you-home repairs. You can use them to hold all sorts of items in place: starter motors, air filters, wheel trims, wing mirrors and the like. Cable ties cost just pence to buy, are virtually indestructible and even a large handful of them weigh next to nothing.
Pliers - A simple pair of pliers can be as cheap as £3 or £4. They can be used for cutting and stripping wire, gripping screws with broken heads and you can always use your pliers when all your normal tools have been defeated.
Engine Oil - Your motorhome is likely to have a pint or so of water on board for emergency topping up, but many owners travel without engine oil. Keeping the oil level correct is simple and essential maintenance.
Length of Rope / Strong String - The number of possible uses for a length of rope is endless and you really should have some with you. Whether it's for tethering a piece of luggage, something which has broken, or just providing extra security for your bike rack, it's never a bad idea to have some on board.
Electrical Terminals and a pair of purpose-made Crimping Pliers - Wires and terminals can break due to a number of factors such as vibration, carelessness and corrosion, so having a means of joining wires or replacing fractured terminals is a must. Electrical terminals cost pennies and can quickly fix many simple electrical problems.
A Piece of Rag - A ready supply of rag is invaluable. A clean rag is good for dusting the dashboard and wiping the windows, a manky one, kept under the bonnet, is handy for wiping the dipstick, mopping up oil and screen-wash spills and general dirty work.
Foot Pump and Tyre Pressure Gauge - Tyres are not a fit-and-forget part, so a pressure gauge is a must, to guard against under-inflation. If your tyres are soft, a foot pump is just the job for getting them back up to pressure.
Motorhome Insurance – make sure that you check your insurance cover before setting off. Is your policy due for renewal?
Steve Greenwood works for Sureterm Direct who offer free articles for Motorhome enthusiasts. Please visit our Motorhome News articles. If you are looking for insurance, obtain your Motorhome Insurance quote from one of the UK’s most competitive insurance specialists.
Article Source: Essential Motorhome Tools to Go
by Steven Greenwood
The important thing to bear in mind is that the quality and selection of tools you take along is significantly more important than the quantity. Chosen carefully, you can reduce the weight and size of your tool kit without compromising its effectiveness. Another point to bear in mind is the means of carrying your tools. Although a macho-looking red metal tool box with ball-bearing runners and chrome hinges will look impressive, it will be very noisy as all those tools clatter around while you are on the move – and very heavy, too. A better alternative is an old holdall - it can be squashed into the corner of a locker, will deaden the sound of the tools, and weigh next to nothing compared to a box.
So what tools should you take?
WD40 - A can of this is seen much like the 'magic sponge' on the football pitch: a sort of cure-all; and that's pretty much the case. It's ideal for sorting out seized fixings and stopping squeaks. But it's excellent for electrical work, too. If you find a gungy electrical connection, a quick clean with some emery cloth and a squirt of WD40 is usually enough to sort things out.
Spanners - The secret is not to take a full set, which might well consist of seven or eight pieces and weigh a couple of kilos – there are not that many times that you are likely to need a spanner in the course of general maintenance of your motorhome. Leave most of your spanners at home; you'll need the one for changing the gas bottles, and a small one (typically 12 or 13mm) for removing the battery, but little else. Pack a small adjustable spanner in case you have a loose nut here or there, but unless you're going to carry out serious mechanical work, there's little call for a spanner.
Screwdrivers - As with spanners, there's little point in taking a whole load of screwdrivers with you when, in all probability, two or three would suffice. One large flat-bladed screwdriver will double usefully as a pry-bar for removing wheel trims and generally 'persuading' troublesome bits and bobs. A regular Phillips and a flat-bladed screwdriver will be good enough for general work but put a small electrical screwdriver in, too, for those fiddly little jobs. If you have a modern motorhome, buy a couple of torx-headed screwdrivers for removing interior trim: T20 and T25 sizes are very popular in Fiat and Peugeot models.
Torque Wrench - A torque wrench may seem a touch extravagant but it is essential for checking that your wheel nuts are tight. Throw away your standard wheel brace and replace it with a large, good quality, torque wrench equipped with the correct socket for securing your wheel nuts. It will also help ensure that you do not over tighten the nuts and damage them.
PTFE Tape - PTFE stands for Polytetrafluoroethylene… otherwise known as Teflon! This thread-sealing tape is ideal whatever problem you encounter, be it a plumbing or engine leak. Simply wrap the stricken thread in tape, retighten the fitting and there's a fair chance your problem will be solved. PTFE tape costs pennies to buy and weighs almost nothing.
Utility Knife - There is no substitute for one of these when you need a blade to remove something. The knife is an old design – neither clever nor sophisticated, but it really works well. The cheapest models cost as little as £1, but put a good blade in the handle and it will be as good and effective as the best.
Insulating Tape - Quite simply, a must have. If a wire's insulation gets damaged, or you need to join two wires, wrapping any bare wire with insulating tape will prevent trouble in the future. A length of wire - A piece of wire is always useful to have around. If wire gets cut or damaged, you can always bridge the break with a piece you have to hand. As you never know the particular use the wire is likely to be put to, it is best to opt for a heavy gauge. In an emergency, if you end up using a wire which is too thick it will be unlikely to cause a problem, but if the wire is too thin, it will heat up and, in extreme cases, could even cause a fire.
Cable Ties - These are great for get-you-home repairs. You can use them to hold all sorts of items in place: starter motors, air filters, wheel trims, wing mirrors and the like. Cable ties cost just pence to buy, are virtually indestructible and even a large handful of them weigh next to nothing.
Pliers - A simple pair of pliers can be as cheap as £3 or £4. They can be used for cutting and stripping wire, gripping screws with broken heads and you can always use your pliers when all your normal tools have been defeated.
Engine Oil - Your motorhome is likely to have a pint or so of water on board for emergency topping up, but many owners travel without engine oil. Keeping the oil level correct is simple and essential maintenance.
Length of Rope / Strong String - The number of possible uses for a length of rope is endless and you really should have some with you. Whether it's for tethering a piece of luggage, something which has broken, or just providing extra security for your bike rack, it's never a bad idea to have some on board.
Electrical Terminals and a pair of purpose-made Crimping Pliers - Wires and terminals can break due to a number of factors such as vibration, carelessness and corrosion, so having a means of joining wires or replacing fractured terminals is a must. Electrical terminals cost pennies and can quickly fix many simple electrical problems.
A Piece of Rag - A ready supply of rag is invaluable. A clean rag is good for dusting the dashboard and wiping the windows, a manky one, kept under the bonnet, is handy for wiping the dipstick, mopping up oil and screen-wash spills and general dirty work.
Foot Pump and Tyre Pressure Gauge - Tyres are not a fit-and-forget part, so a pressure gauge is a must, to guard against under-inflation. If your tyres are soft, a foot pump is just the job for getting them back up to pressure.
Motorhome Insurance – make sure that you check your insurance cover before setting off. Is your policy due for renewal?
Steve Greenwood works for Sureterm Direct who offer free articles for Motorhome enthusiasts. Please visit our Motorhome News articles. If you are looking for insurance, obtain your Motorhome Insurance quote from one of the UK’s most competitive insurance specialists.
Article Source: Essential Motorhome Tools to Go
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Buying a Used Motorhome
Buying a Used Motorhome
By Steven Greenwood
Registration Documents
Check the motorhome's registration document carefully. In particular, look at the model and type, and taxation class details. Avoid a motorhome whose vehicle registration document carries incorrect details under either of those two headings.
Service History
Make sure you buy a motorhome that has a service history. At the very least you should ask to see the previous MOT certificates so that you can check whether or not the claimed mileage is genuine.
Wheel Tread
Check that the tread on all tyres has worn evenly and that there are no cracks or splits in the walls. Check the inside tyre walls. Uneven tread wear could be an indication of more serious problems, so walk away.
Check underneath
Check the chassis and exhaust system for corrosion. Look for obvious signs of oil leaks and inspect the condition of the hydraulic pipes, electrical cables, water and waste pipes.
Outside Condition
Look at the sides of the motorhome, from each end, for signs of dents and other damage. In the case of aluminium sides, also check for signs of corrosion which are likely to manifest itself by tiny pinholes where the paint has come away. Also, signs of paint over-spray can mean a poor bodywork repair following an accident. If it looks serious, it probably is, so walk away. Gaps in the sealant, or sealant which is no longer sticking to the bodywork, are signs that resealing is necessary, which is certain to be expensive. Also, don't forget to check the roof - a dirty top-side may be concealing damage, for breaks in the sealant.
Inside Condition
In the case of a coachbuilt or A-class motorhome, press the walls inside and ceiling firmly to check for any signs of softness which would indicate possible water ingress. In particular, check in the corners under the seats and base units because this is often where water ingress first appears. Stained wallboard is another adverse sign which should not be ignored.
Windows
Check all plastic windows in the motorhome for gouges and deep scratch damage. Scratches can often be polished out but deep marks or other damage may mean that the window has to be replaced - a plastic window for a motorhome is an expensive item. While you are examining the windows, gently lift the seal in different areas - if the frame is black, this is almost certainly due to water ingress.
Flooring
Make sure you walk all over the floor, feeling for soft spots which may indicate delamination. It is possible to repair this but it may be a sign of more significant structural problems, now or in the future.
Bathroom
In the bathroom, check the condition of the sealant around the toilet, shower and basin. If a mat is fitted in the shower tray, lift it to check for cracks in the tray. Depending on the age of the motorhome it can sometimes be impossible to find a replacement for a damaged item such as this.
Owner's Manual
Ask to see the owners' manual, and suppliers' instructions for the various items of equipment in the motorhome. Careful owners will have kept them.
These checks are far from exhaustive, but they offer some areas to think about when looking over the motorhome. A well looked after motorhome will keep its value and could well be a great investment for all those holidays both home and abroad. Just like when buying an expensive car, it is well worth the time looking over your investment thoroughly before parting with your cash.
You are invited to view our wide collection of motorhome articles including buying guides, popular events and reviews for motorhome enthusiasts. Obtain a cheap motorhome insurance quote from one of the UK's most competitive insurance specialists, Sureterm Direct.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steven_Greenwood
http://EzineArticles.com/?Buying-a-Used-Motorhome&id=2964088
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