Safety Tips for Getting Ready to Pull Out

Safety Tips for Getting Ready to Pull Out
By Edwin J. Hill

Inexperienced people think the job's done once the trailer is hooked up. I think there's a lot more to towing a travel trailer safely. It's more a matter of common sense than anything else.

I'm a believer in checking, double-checking and checking once more. My family sometimes gets impatient with me but, then, I've never had an accident with an RV

I make sure the coupling, itself, is secure. I check the safety chains, the break-away safety and the electrical hookup.

Part of checking the electrical hookup is checking all the lights. I turn on the parking lights on the tow vehicle and have someone stand behind the trailer. I have them confirm to me that the running lights and tail lights are working. Together, we test each turn signal as well as the brake lights. If they're not working, I don't drive!

I go inside the trailer and make sure everything that needs to be secured is secure. I check all the cupboard doors and drawers. Any doors must be locked in place. Anything that could fall is secured.

I like to walk around the trailer twice. The first time, I check all the compartment doors to make sure they're all locked. I also make sure the trailer steps are folded up and out of the way. On this trip around the trailer, I check all the hookups again. I make sure the truck mirrors are adjusted for trailer towing

The second time around, I try to get at least 30 feet away so I can easily see under the trailer to the other side. I have discovered things hanging down that needed to be secured. Other times, I have noticed something lying on the ground that needed to be picked up. It's during this once-around that I check to make sure the truck and trailer are level.

It may seem like unnecessary overkill. However, I have found something wrong just often enough to make me keep on doing it.

In the name of safety, I recommend you do the same!

Ed Hill was introduced to "camping" by the US Army nearly half a century ago. Since then, he has traveled across most of the United States and parts of Europe using a variety of tents and RV's. Ed is now sharing that love of RV travel in his blog, http://www.EnjoyRVTravel.com

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Winter RV Battery Storage

Winter RV Battery Storage
By Mark Polk

The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging.

Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let's look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they're charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it's a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it's below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It's not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the
stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD.

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/

Sign up for your free "RV Education 101" Newsletter http://rveducation101.com/email/

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Safe and Happy RVing

A Safe RV is a Happy RV
by Nelson Stewart

Even if you're not mechanically inclined, there are a lot of things you can do to keep your RV running problem-free. A bit of regular maintenance will help you learn more about your vehicle and anticipate problems before they turn into breakdowns.

Here are some simple how-to's for maintaining your RV:

Regular Maintenance

1. Tires keep you rolling, find out how much pressure they should have and keep them inflated to that level. This easy task will also increase your fuel mileage.



2. Know what your RV's weight limits are. Do you know what the gross vehicle weight rating is, or the cargo carrying capacity? Find out and stay within the limits.



3. Record the height and width of your RV and keep it handy to ensure you can fit through that tunnel or under an overpass.



4. Keep your fire extinguisher nearby and have it inspected each year.



5. Make sure your smoke alarm as working batteries.



6. For a motorized RV, do regular checks of your oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, anti-freeze, and window washer solution.



7. Stock your RV for emergencies by ensuring you have warm clothes, bedding and enough food and water for a few days.



8. Awnings are easily damaged by wind, it's good practice to add additional ratcheting straps for extra security.



9. Moisture build up is an RV's worst enemy, potentially causing staining, freezing or mildew growth. The worst producer of moisture accumulation is the shower, bathroom and cooking in the kitchen. Try to do the majority of your water boiling in the microwave. When you do boil liquids on the stove top, open the roof vent and a window to reduce the moisture in the air. The same goes for running the shower, always have the roof vent open. If moisture build up persists, you may consider getting a dehumidifier to fight the condensation.



10. To extend the life of the hot water heater it's good practice to flush out the heater tank every season. It's a simple process, here are the steps:

• Shut off the hot water heater and allow water in the tank to cool or run the hot water tap until it cools.



• Turn off the water supply to the coach and release the water pressure by opening up the "hot" faucets.



• Remove the access panel from the exterior of the RV and remove the hex headed plastic drain plug.



• Water will flow out the drain. If necessary, use a coat hanger to break up any sediment which may be blocking the opening.



• Direct high water pressure from a garden hose into the drain hole, swiveling from side to side to stir up the sediment in the tank.



• Remove the hose and let the tank drain.



• Repeat this filling and draining process with the garden hose until the water flushing from the tank is clean.



• Reinstall the drain plug, turn on the water supply and close the "hot" water taps when water has filled the tank and begins to flow.

Winter Storage

Whether you winterize your RV yourself or pay someone to do it, these are the steps for storing your vehicle for the winter months.

• Unplug all appliances and disconnect any batteries.



• Disconnect the ice maker water feed lines and drain.



• Defrost your refrigerator, if needed.



• Drain the hot water heater and flush (see above).



• Once water is drained from your fresh water system, pump nontoxic RV antifreeze through all the lines. You may need to borrow a compressor to do this. Open every tap until you see the antifreeze flowing from the faucets. Add a cup of antifreeze in the sink and shower traps.



• Remove any canned goods (they can burst if frozen), or foods that may attract rodents.



• Double check your antifreeze in the engine cooling system.



• Put out some rat poison and remove all bedding or anything they may use to make a nest.



• To protect from snow or ice damage, cover your RV with a tarp.

This article was submitted by the writers at Palm Gardens, a luxury Arizona retirement community. View their extensive listing of Arizona mobile homes for sale.

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